Big Year List gets to 600!

Birding with Japie Claassen in the Karoo.

Reading my post about the Karoo makes me smile, I was rather naive about the 'restful'. Our drive from the Karoo National Park into the heart of the Tankwa or the succulent Karoo, via Sutherland, took us into new territory.

The weather was so variable: we experienced mist as we woke up at Jakkalsdans, our farm stay 60 kilometers beyond Sutherland; rain over the Gannaga Pass; cold conditions and a howling wind all night while we bunkered down at the Tanqua Guesthouse after watching the sunset over the Cedarberg..
The Tankwa has space in abundance, a vast plain encircled by mountains, the Cedarberg to the West and the Roggeveld Escarpment to the East and the Klein Roggeveld to the South.
I had organised this trip with Japie Claassen not only for the opportunity of the rich endemic bird life that he knows so well but also to be guided through this unknown place. I am pleased we did so as we leant about this National Park that is still in its developmental and land consolidation phase.

The other more obvious reason to be in the Karoo, was to indulge in the legendary Karoo lamb which we did with gay abandon each night.

The Tankwa is a place of contrasts, the rainfall up on the Roggeveld Mts is as much as 400 mm so the Karoo vegetation feels lush, whereas down on the gravel plains the annual rainfall drops to 15 mm. Even though we were not in the peak spring flower period there was lots of colour and beautiful 'vygies' wherever we looked and walked.

These plains were our destination to bird for the elusive Burchell's Courser. Japie regaled us with many stories on this legendary bird of the Karoo, the challenge of scanning for movement in an area spanning some 12 by 5 kilometers! We arrived around noon, inched and birded along the access road to the Guesthouse mostly looking out from the passenger side of the Jeep. We were almost at the gate when Japie yelled 'Stop' and 'Chicks' all at once.

He had seen a pair of Burchell's right near our vehicle, not to the left but to the right, with their chicks which he estimated were about 5 days old, in all the years of following these birds he had yet to see chicks. What another amazing story for the Big Year and a momentous sighting of these beautiful birds.

Pair of Burchell's Coursers and their chick, immobile through all the panic....

As the birds were been ticked off along the way and we got to 599 with a sighting of the Grey Tit. I was waiting in anticipation which bird would be the momentous 600th for the year.

It was unexpectedly a bird I was not even targeting in the Karoo, a lone Black Stork in a small dam along the road on our drive to Sutherland. Sitting in the back of the car, reviewing how far I had come with my birding in the past 10 months, was deeply satisfying.

Japie's Post:

I went with some SA clients on a birding trip trough the Karoo and Tanqua Karoo. The Karoo areas around Beaufort West were dry but as it is early spring, birds were quiet active.We first birded the Karoo Nat Park and the surrounding areas where we picked up:Karoo Nat Park:Southern Tchagra, Booted Eagle, Ludwig's Bustard, Karoo Korhaan, Karoo Longbilled & Spikeheeled Lark, Cape Penduline Tit, Chat Flycatcher, Longbilled Pipit, Black-throated Canary & Larklike Bunting.

Molteno Pass north of Beaufort West:Cinnamonbreasted Warbler building nest, Layard's Titbabbler, Hamerkop, Longbilled Crombec, Pririt Batis, Fairy FlycatcherPlains east of Beaufort West:Several Doublebanded Coursers with chicks, Sclater's Lark, Greybacked & Blackeared Sparrowlarks, Karoo Korhaans, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Yellowbellied Eremomela.

The next day we took the road to Tanqua via the off beaten tracks via Fraserburg and Sutherland. On the road to Fraserburg we had good views of Jackal Buzzard, Ground Woodpecker breeding, Grey Tit, Short-toed Rock Thrush, Pririt Batis & Black-throated Canary.

The road between Fraserburg and Sutherland delivered Blackheaded Canaries, more Blackeared Sparrowlarks and a Black Stork.We stayed at Jakkalsdans Guest Farm (www.wheretostay.co.za/jakkalsdans. ; e-mail: info@jakkalsdans.co.za ; tel +27 23 5712745 ) which is a lovely place along the Fish River (the Karoo's Fish River). It is completely furnish with everything for self-catering and if you would like to treat yourself, organize with Lien Barnard and she will supply you with delicious salads, a perfect home-baked bread and some excellent chops and wors. It can be highly recommended!Birding around the guest farm is also excellent and there are different trials, but you can almost walked anywhere on the farm. Some birds we saw, were a large flock of Greater Flamingoes on a dam nearby, Common Greenshank, Namaqua Dove, Eur. Bee-eater, Common House-martin, Grey Tit, Namaqua Warbler, first Afr Reed-warbler of season, Dusky Sunbird, Blackheaded Canary, Afr Black Duck and all the common doves and ducks. During the night Barn Owl and Spotted Thick-knee were calling.

The next morning was very foggy and drizzling as we moved down to the Tanqua. Along the way to Gannaga Pass we saw some wettish Greywinged Francolins. Down the mountain the weather cleared and we pick up Karoo Eremomela, Karoo Lark, Black-chested Snake Eagle, Greater Kestrel, Capped Wheatear, Tractrac Chat and Ludwig's Bustard.

The best pick of the day was a pair of Burchell's Coursers with 2 small chicks in the eastern entrance road to Oudebaaskraal. The chicks "hide" on the open stony area and gave us splendid views of them and the adults. What a sight!!

The dam at Oudebaaskraal hosts the usual ducks including Maccoa Duck and Southern Pochard, a large flock of Greater Flamingoes, all three grebe species, Marsh Sandpiper and Common Greenshank.

The wooden area below the dam in the Tanqua River delivered inter alia Klaas's Cuckoo, Pearlbreasted Swallow, Namaqua Warbler and Fairy Flycatcher.

Another splendid trip through the Karoo.

JAPIE CLAASSENKAROO BIRDING SAFARISBOX 112, BEAUFORT WEST, 6970TEL +27 23 4142980FAX 086 6060267CELL +27 83 724 7916

E-MAIL: claassen@cybertrade.co.zaWEB: www.karoobirding.wetpaint.com.

Great Karoo

The Karoo makes me feel that all the peripheral nonsence in life is shaved away and one is left with the essense of a landscape and a place.

It is so restful.

I love this image of a windmill and Fred filling our water bottles with Karoo water.

The end of day found us watching the woolen nest of the Cape Penduline Tits deep in a thorn tree. I think its the only wool nest that I am aware of and about the size of a kiddies rugby ball. When the Tits eventually arrived, with wool in their bills, they started to move in and out of the nest, I just had to breathe deeply and take in the marvel of my interaction with the bird world. I feel as though I fall in love each time I have these moments of seeing deeply.

We have been staying in the Karoo National Park, another place that holds me. Japie Claassen of Karoo Birding Safaris is a man of the Karoo and he brings wonderful insights into birding here.

Our early morning drive in the Park was rewarded with the scene of these Red Hartebeest bulls sparing and marking territory. The Cape Mountain Zebra were also a new addition to our mammal list for the year.

The birding was fabulous and lifers rolled in all day, starting with this little gem the Rufous-eared Warbler.

We ended the day adding 6 birds to our list, Japie was single-minded in working his spots to get the specials, like the hour we spent along the Loxton Road from Beaufort West to find the Crimson-breasted Warbler. Or patiently driving the farm roads along the R61 until we saw the Black-eared Sparrowlarks. Such a great start to our road trip through the Karoo.

This "Rocky" which we saw along our drive up the Klipspringer Pass was a photographers dream given the rocky setting and the great light.

After breakfast this morning we are making our way to Sutherland, a first for us....

Within Reach of Life's Magic

A conversation with Sharon recently prompted her to send me this quote. I did put my sail into the wind over 9 months ago with the challenge to see as many birds in a year as possible. As of this morning I have equalled my starting point of 592 by seeing Red-breasted Swallows on our drive around De Tweedespruit.

You don't take "baby steps" for the distance they cover, but to put yourself within reach of life's magic.

Just like you don't hoist your sails to move the boat, but to put yourself within reach of the wind.

The day was not without its difficulties. Fred locked the keys in the Jeep and had to break a back window to get us going again which left him angry. He also left his camera card at home and missed on the photo opportunity for our milestone event. Some days you wake up and the baby steps you have to take feel onerous, today was one of those days, it seemed like too many dusty, bumpy roads.

We recovered somewhat by having a monstrous breakfast in Cullinan among the Sunday morning bikers and the historical town is refreshing given its proximity to the density of Johannesburg and Pretoria.

Bone Eaters of the Berg

'Climb the mountains and their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their freshness on you, and the storms will give you their energy; while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.' John Muir

I found this quote by the Scottish-born, American 19th century naturalist John Muir, on a bench plaque at the foothills of the Drakensberg this morning and I do not have better language to describe being in the mountains, walking along endless contour paths and taking in the scenery.

Our trip had been planned quite some time back to ensure we could get a day at the Bearded Vulture Hide at Giant's Castle. A Big Year would not be a big year without seeing these large, solitary vultures of the Drakensberg, known as the bone eaters. I was intrigued by their ossuaries, or bone-breaking sites, which are used by Bearded Vultures (Gypaetus barbatus) to prepare and store bone remains. I read that they break the bones to access the nutritious marrow and to reduce the size of bone remains for ingestion. Although I had seen the Bearded Vulture in the mid-90's while walking in the Amphitheatre, I had not in fact seen the 'beard', in all honesty not seen much beyond the distinctive wedge-shaped tail.

So, Monday morning early, June, Ross, Fred and I were installed in the hide, which is a concrete bunker perched precariously on the edge of a ridge, about 4 kilometers from the Giant's Castle Camp. There was the ossuary, right below the hide, littered with the sun bleached bones.

What an experience.

We were treated to magnificent eye-level views of a handful of juvenile Bearded Vultures as well as the quite magnificent adult throughout the morning. I saw that beard! As June said, she could feel her soul soar alongside these huge birds as they effortlessly moved along the cliff edge following the thermals. We sat quietly for hours, silently hoping for a bird to settle near the hide while Fred revelled in the photographic challenge of the birds in flight.

It was not to happen. And it also did not matter as it was a quite perfect day. Our picnic in this beautiful setting must be the best picnic of the year and we all revelled being together and sharing an experience in nature which is at the heart of the Big Birding Year.

Gentle day of Wild Flowers on the West Coast

After the harshness of our day out to sea, ambling around the West Coast National Park was blissful. I had timed our visit to Cape Town to both take in a winter Pelagic and to see some of the famous floral wonder of the West Coast. I was not disappointed. The Postberg section of the park is open for the flowers at this time of year and it is beautiful to drive around, rocky outcrops, glorious seaviews and the detail of the flowers. We even came across a new bird on the drive, two Karoo Larks on the roadside, a great thrill as our time at the Geelbeck Hide had still not come up with Curlews.

I was also on the lookout for Korhaans and we found a Southern Black Korhaan among the flowers, calling and generally looking very pleased to be part of the energy of spring.

One of the joys of birding is stumbling upon the unexpected, we were driving down to the Seeberg Hide and saw this Cape Spurfowl having a sand bath. The bird just ignored us, rolled and flicked the sand with gay abandon and you could feel its sheer pleasure for this simple task.



Antarctic Terns come into our waters from the south to roost on the rocky shoreline during winter and are going to be on their way very soon, so I checked in with Marje from Birding Africa and she sent me a map to a reliable site for the terns. We left the park late afternoon and drove up to Jacobs Bay, parked south of the houses and walked along the rocky shore. Thanks Marje they were there are promised, red bills, red legs, set off against the lichen on the rocks, wonderful way to end a special day in a place I just love.

A Tough Day out to Sea

The Obsession left from Hout Bay at about 8 am this morning, the harbour looked serene sheltered in its bay and we were all quite optimistic. I was bemused by the boat's name given how this birding year has become border-line obsessive.

I was a bag of nerves though, the Obsession is a small fishing vessel and did not even have enough seating for the 10 of us on the boat. Drugged up to the gills I was seasick within the first hour and all I could think about was 'please let this be over soon'. It will have to be our last pelagic as Fred also suffers terribly out to sea. The weather was good, very little wind but the swells were huge, I got totally drenched and my body is still aching and bruised from bracing against the rocking and rolling of the vessel.

A few hours out of Hout Bay we came in close to a trawler and the volume of seabirds was quite spectacular, Pintado's, Gannets, Shy and Black-browed Albatross, White-chinned Petrels, Wilson's Storm-Petrels, almost too much to take in and certainly a life event. But forget trying to find rarities I was challenged just to be present.

Bruce did find us some new birds though, Subantarctic Skua, Northern and Southern Giant-Petrels and a very brief glimpse of a Great Shearwater.

Fred managed to take some photos:

...Pintado Petrels feeding behind the trawler and the ubiquitous White-chinned Petrel taking off...







....the impressive Southern Giant-Petrel right next to us surrounded by Pintado's...


...and a juvenile Black-browed Albatross with a smaller, captivating Pintado Petrel.

Quarter Three Report

The winter months saw a slow but steady increase in the number of birds seen for the Big Birding Year, adding 35 birds for the three months. I was also most pleased with having seen 5 lifers during winter , the most exciting being the Orange Ground-Thrush at Marutswa Forest near Bulwer and the delightful Yellow-throated Sandgrouse near Sun City. I am also tracking how may of the near-endemics and endemics I see during the Big Birding Year and to date we have seen 85% of the near-endemics and 71% of the endemics.

I have loved been out in the bracing cold and there was only one occasion while in the Berg with my family that we had to abandon being outdoors because of the gale force winds. We travelled 7000 km during the quarter, especially into Kwa-Zulu Natal, Free State, a visit to Dullstroom and to Magoebaskloof. Fred and the Jeep have been constant companions and we have enjoyed exploring places closer to home like Borakalalo and Vaalkop Dam Nature Reserves. I joined the bird club early one saturday morning to learn more about ringing as well, loved getting into the details of birds but I realise that ringing will not be my forte.

I spent special days with my sister and her family at her home in Hilton and we birded together in the Midlands. Doreen is now a convert, she is loving her birding both in her garden and further afield, she has bought her bird book and her list is growing, marvelous to see - go Dors! Even Inel joined in while she was out from Australia and I had little Jos scanning the skies for vultures on our walks at Sterkfontein Dam.

Another high-light for the quarter was birding with Jan and Martie. We spent a marvelous morning in Dlinza Forest at Eshowe guided by Jotham and the birding was a real treat.

I am pleased that I managed to keep the focus on birding throughout the winter and we birded for 28 days over the 3 months. This is an achievement given the pull of a duvet day, hot chocolate and a good book, maybe next year....

I now have three months left to chase both the remaining birds on my list as well as lifers. I started the Big Birding Year with a life list of 592 and I go into this last quarter with 581, only 11 birds off my starting point. As Phil just said its amazing where a passion can lead one, or is it an obsession, either way I had not really expected to be tracking these sorts of numbers and my expectations for the year have already been exceeded. Seeing the two Side-striped Jackals while birding in the forests of Magoebaskloof was a gem of a moment and there have been so many of these unexpected joys during the year.

The next step is to see how 'big' I can make the year. Brian has challenged me to 650 and I do love a challenge. My life list is at 661 and I am now harbouring intentions of getting it to 700. I am blogging at the flat in Cape Town and tomorrow is an important day to start the last quarter, a winter pelagic leaving from Hout Bay. I am nervous, dreading the swells but excited at the possibilities of new seabirds.

Weekend at Borakalalo

The Pearly was calling at dusk and Fred got a good fire going in the boma on saturday night, we had coffee with Italian nougat and I was planning the sunday birding. It all seems quite blissful but looking back I was frustrated most of the time. Each spot that we birded didn't reveal its special, the Quarry for Striped Pipit (yet another weekend with no success on this bird!), the picnic site for Grey Penduline-Tit and the longshot, a Finfoot as we walked at dawn along the Moretele River Walk. I thought I may have seen the Penduline-Tits but when I saw a Crombec in the birding party, I was then not sure about the tits, and of course the party flew off and I was left even more grumpy. It felt as though I am now trying too hard and some of the pleasure was slipping away. Even the antics of the Puffback seemed to be trying to lighten my mood....

It also did not help our mood when the Vervet Monkeys stole our breakfast provisions...

Anyway I did eventually pull myself together, Fred found a store and stocked up, we made a good lunch and then ambled along the Klipvoor Dam waters edge which with a stretch of the imagination feels like Botswana. I spent time enjoying the hundreds of waterbirds and working on the identification of the waders on the muddy banks.

The list by the time we left was over 80 birds and I am now planning a pelagic trip from Hout Bay for this weekend. I am not looking forward to the sea but I am really looking forward to swelling my list.

My friend Sharon sent me this quote which is a special way to herald spring:

Everything is blooming most recklessly;
if it were voices instead of colours, there would be an
unbelievable shrieking into the heart of the night.
~Rainer Maria Rilke, Letters of Rainer Maria Rilke