Etosha surprises with its stark vast flat expanses, the plains seem endless and the Etosha Pan is so full after the good rainy season, that it feels like a coastline. Trees are scarse and create exquisite backdrops for scenic photos and wonderful sunsets. The waterholes are a joy to watch for zebra coming down to drink, sandgrouse arriving in squadrons at sunset.
This is a place of fine grey dust and for long slow breathing.
I had many firsts - a Black Rhino at the famous Okaukuejo waterhole, the diminuitive Damara Dik-dik, the rare Black-faced Impala, Hartman's Mountain Zebra, African Wild Cat as well as Springhare on the night drive from Hobatere Lodge and Congo Rope Squirrels.
We saw huge herds of plains Zebra, Springbok, the Hartmans Mountain Zebra which is only found in the rocky far west of Etosha, giraffe, blue wildebeest and the impressive Gemsbok.
Love the 'bum' shot, Burchells on the left and Hartman's on the right clearly show the differences between the two zebra species here in Namibia.
Birding was a treat too, Kori and White-quilled Bustards were common sightings on the plains. Larks, coursers, sandgrouse all flourish on the plains.The morning drive from our first camp was also my first views of the challenging Pink-billed Lark. Another exciting lifer at our final camp, Namutoni, was the Red-necked Falcon a spectucular small raptor that obligingly sat for us at the ubiquitous waterhole.
There is a mud track that extends into the Pan where we were able to get out the vehicle and watch the selection of birds that are adapted to the salinity of the water, like the Chestnut-banded Plovers and rafts of Avocets. As you can see in the photo it is surreal to be surrounded by this amount of water in such an arid setting as Etosha.
The Shrika sighting at Halali Camp during our morning walk brought my Big Birding Year total to 500 birds seen since starting out in the Waterberg in December. Champagne breakfast was in order!
